Leave The Windows Open

It might be freezing outside but that doesn't stop Spaniards from opening all the windows during Christmas dinner...and other observations

We’ve just celebrated Christmas Eve and Christmas here in Southern Spain and there is one thing that really stood out to me this year: the tendency of Spaniards to open windows in their homes despite it being freezing outside.

This happened three times in the course of two days: at my in-laws’ house, at their uncle’s house, and at their cousin’s house as we went on a holiday tour of Christmas meals to spend time with all parts of the extended family. Here, depending on the family, both Christmas Eve and Christmas are celebrated with big meals. But that’s not all, New Year’s Eve is also a big family meal, and then just a few days later there is Reyes Eve and Reyes.

It was approximately 35 degrees Fahrenheit/2 degrees Celsius when I walked into the living room of my in-laws’ for Christmas Eve dinner to find every single window wide open. I looked skeptically at my partner who shrugged noncommittally. Wash, rinse and repeat as we spent lunch and dinner the next day at two other homes where all windows were also open.

Whenever I’ve asked about the scarcity of indoor heating, or the abundance of open windows, I’ve been met with “it’s only cold for 3 days in winter in Sevilla” and “you’ve got to ventilate that house, especially in winter when there are more virus’ floating around.”

Sevillanos are known for exaggerating, however in the instance of saying “winter lasts 3 days” I’d like to exaggerate on the opposite end of the spectrum: it’s so cold here and places are so poorly prepared for the cold that the cold feels like it lasts 6 months because you simply never warm up. I remember when I studied abroad here I wore gloves in my host mom’s house, alongside a scarf and 2 pairs of socks, indoors mind you! My indoor winter attire was due to the lack of heater in the whole apartment, and my host mom told me I was “exagerada” when I complained about the igloo-like conditions in her home.

Oddly enough, moments like this contribute to why I like living here just as much as all the positive things I love to reflect on. The lessons in adaptation hold just as much value, if not more, than the appreciation of community over individuality, the simplistic magic of tosatada con jamon, and enjoying a coffee at the cafeteria instead of ordering it to-go. My tendency is to complain, “it’s crazy you guys leave the windows open when it’s freezing outside!”, but then I pause and remember I’m the foreigner living in their country. I think to myself, “abrígate” (bundle up), and then those open windows won’t bother you so much.

Over the years I’ve learned to bundle up all winter long. Regardless of if I’m indoors or outdoors I wear at least 3 layers and a heavy coat, and thus avoid freezing the night away. I recommend a regular shirt under a thermal under a turtleneck, because to be fair during the day in the direct sun it’s actually quite hot here (the second you step into the shade however, the temperatures change by a drastic 10-15 degrees). But a fair warning to anyone coming to Southern Spain, unless you’re staying at a hotel, brace yourself for cold temperatures indoors and out, and pack your warmest!

Photo by CHUTTERSNAP on Unsplash